Tuesday, May 13, 2014

Mason Jar Wall Mount

Thanks for stopping by our blog! 

This week we will be posting a how-to tutorial for a popular item we will have for sale on our store (http://www.WoodyThings.com). I stumbled upon this picture on the Google machine ;-) and decided to create a similar item. 

Below I will show you how to make a 2 and/or 3 Jar mount. 
Some popular applications for mounted mason jars depend on the room you use them. Some ideas can be:
  • Bathroom/Powder room (fill with Q-tips, cotton balls, combs, brushes, makeup sponges, shower caps, etc.)

  • Office or homework area (fill with pens, pencils, paper clips, rubber bands, rulers, markers, etc.)

  • Laundry room (fill with clothes pins, spare change, detergent capsules, etc.)

Now lets get to it, check out the steps below:

Material List 
For 2 Mason Jars:
(2) Mason Jars (mine were 7" tall, 3.75" wide)
(2) Clamps- Adjustable from 3" to 5"
(1) Wood Board, 1 x 6 @ 12" (I used pine)

For 3 Mason Jars:
(3) Mason Jars (mine were 7" tall, 3.75" wide)
(3) Clamps- Adjustable from 3" to 5"
(1) Wood Board, 1 x 6 @ 16" (I used pine)

(2) Sawtooth Picture Hangers
(10) Brad Nails
Carpenter square
150 grit Sand paper
Stain or paint

Saw (Miter saw, handsaw, circular or jigsaw. whatever floats your boat)
Pencil (to mark measurements on the wood)
Clear weather seal

Optional tools
Jigsaw (to cut corner design)
Router (to route/dress up the edges) 

Here's a pic of my materials:
(2) Mason Jars, and corresponding clamps.
* Note: I will end up making the (3) Jar mounts.

Here you see some of the materials used, along with the finishing Stain I used

 Here are some of the tools used. Jigsaw and Router. Don't worry, I'll be providing the full list coming up.

And here's the last shot of everything.

Step 1:
Mark and cut board to size. I recommend 12" for (2) jars, or 16" for (3) jars.
This is a shot of the 16" mark, this is where I will make my cut. 
I am building the (3) jar mounts.

 To ensure I have a straight line, I am using the carpenter square.

 OPTIONAL: Mark corner cuts if desired. I used the tops of the jars and made a 1" semi-circle

Step 2: 
Cut the board to size (in my case it was previously marked to 16")
 Here's the rough cut

 OPTIONAL: cut the corner pieces off with the Jigsaw. 
I clamped the board to my workbench, cut the corners, then flipped the boards and got the other sides.

 Here's how it looks if you choose to cut the corners.

OPTIONAL: I decided to route my edges, and used the 1/4" Cove piece 

 OPTIONAL: Clamp the piece to a flat, stable surface, and begin routing the edges

 This is how it will look if you choose to route the edges. I like this because it will help the jars stand out, as if they were mounted as a trophy piece :-)

Step 3:
Mark the placement of your jars. My jars are 3.75" wide, and I want to place:
A- (3) Jars: 1.25" between each jar and away from the corners
B- (2) Jars: 1.5" between each jar and away from the corners

 Mark your distance away from the edge. In my case, 1.25" from the edge

Mark the wood so you can see the distance between your jars

Sorry for the upside down pic, but here's my marking of where the three jars will be

I'm a dork, so I labeled each one for you guys and gals
Step 4: 
Mark the board mid points at each jar vertically and horizontally.
Locating the midpoints will help identify where the clamps will be nailed.
Indent this midpoint with a nail or with your screwdriver just a bit. This is going to help leave a mark to use as reference. Once we sand and stain the wood these pencil marks will disappear. Indenting the wood will help us locate the midpoints.  

This is a look at where the clamps will be nailed. Try to orient the clamps so that they face the same direction, and you will be able to tighten/loosen the clamps as needed.

Step 5:
Sand the wood, wipe away the dust that will form up, then proceed to stain or paint the wood to the color of your choice. When your stain dries completely, protect the wood with a thin coat or two of polyurethane.

Step 6:
Nail the clamps to the board (Once the stain dries. I waited about 30 minutes, but read the instructions on your stain/paint choice). First, locate the previously indented midpoint, then place two brad nails, besides each other, to ensure the clamp doesn't swivel.
I started by nailing the center clamp, then continued with the other two. As you can already tell, the order doesn't matter.
Here's a look at the two nails.

Flip the piece of wood over once the stain has dried and nail the hangers to the Rear, Top corners of the frame. 

I nailed the hangers 1" from the top, and 2.25" from either end.

Easy as pie!

Flip the board over again and insert and attach the jars by screwing the clamps secure.   
Here's a look at my three jars. Well, two, I dropped one and it shattered. So now I have to go get a replacement. But you're imaginative, just picture the center Mason jar being there :-)

Here's another picture against a different background just so you can see the contrast. I will be posting more pictures of the jars already mounted and hung up in the bathroom (that's where I am placing mine). 

Thats it! now go fill the jars with your favorite items.

Thanks for taking the time to browse through the blog. If you have any questions, concerns, suggestions or comments, please do not hesitate to drop us a comment below or reach out through the following social media outlets:





Finally, to check out some of the other creations we've made or to place an order on this or any of the items you see for sale at our site, contact us through our http://WoodyWoodWorks.etsy.com or http://www.WoodyThings.com page!

Happy Crafting!

Wednesday, April 23, 2014

Porch Swing Glider (Bench)

Thanks for stopping by our blog!

I decided to make my wife a Porch Swing Glider for her birthday this year. I downloaded plans for the bench from Ana White's webpage. For the Glider itself, I followed a video on YouTube. Stay tuned! I will be posting the plans and step-by-step tutorial soon.

Building the Porch Swing Bench:
(5) 2x4 @ 8 ft
(2) 1x6 @8 ft
(1) 1x6 @4 ft
(1) 1x4 @8 ft

2 1/2" (2 and a half inch) exterior Self-Tapping Screws -OR- 
1 1/2" (1 and a half) exterior Self-Tapping Screws (if using a Kreg Jig)

Additional materials to Hang the bench
(8) Eye Bolts
(8) S-Hooks
10 foot chain for the glider (have the hardware store cut to 2.5ft each)
* If you are hanging on your porch or a separate A-frame (not off the Glider like this tutorial) then your chain measurement will vary. Judge accordingly.

Carpenter square
Measuring tape
Miter Saw or Circular Saw (or hand saw if you're up for the work)
Kreg Jig (if choosing to make Pocket holes)
Countersink Bits

Here's some good safety guidance I read on ana-white's post.
"Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!"

First and foremost, buy some lumber!
* Lumber of choice. I used Pine, you may want to consider weather treated wood if your glider will be exposed to the elements
Spent about $56 bucks for the wood and screws.

The rolled up thing (not included in the price) is a fence/net. I have to (separate blog) put a top on our vegetable garden. I have birds eating my seeds!

Haul them home  

Secondly, cut to size
Cut List: 
(2) - 2x4 @ 48"
(4) - 2x4 @ 18"
(4) - 2x4 @ 19 3/4"
(1) - 2x4 @ 48"
(2) - 2x4 @ 11 1/4"
(2) - 2x4 @ 22 1/2"
(5) - 1x6 @ 48"
(2) - 1x4 @ 48"

I used my miter saw, measured twice, cut once, and here goes the cut stock. And the iPad so I can make sure I stay on course, take pics, make notes and listen to some good Pandora music :-)

Build a basic 2 x 4 Frame

 Line up the pieces, mark your lines (where you will be screwing your pieces together)

Make sure to mark your measurements

Attach with 2-1/2" screws on one side first, squaring each attachment   

Follow up with attaching the other side

Assemble the back support frame. Don't worry about the bottom just yet. This picture is just to show you the top, and back slots coming together. I pocket hole'd these. 

I assembled the back support with pocket holes. Make sure you set it up for the material thickness.

Clamp, Square and assemble the back frame.

Attach the back support to the bottom

This is how mine turned out.

I simply put three screws per board. 
Countersink the holes as you attach the back to the bottom support

Attach the front arm supports.

Attach the front arm support tops 
*please note my after-action notes. Before installing the arm support tops I will suggest you 
(1) Pocket hole these to attach to the back
(2) Do not install until AFTER you place the seat boards. Otherwise you will not have the clearance to screw the ends of the seat boards (next step)

   Attach the seat slats
*THEN I would install/screw the front Arm Support Tops 

 I used a 1/4 inch piece of wood to leave a gap between the set boards

 Closer look at the gap distance

I marked with a pencil my countersink hole locations. You can't see it on this picture but you can actually see the bottom frame board underneath. This is where I screw the seat bottom pieces. I attached the bottom seat slays with 8 screws per board.

Install the back slots

I preferred my spacing to be larger at the bottom, but you can see its pretty straight forward. what you did on the seat bottoms, do on the backs.

This covers how to assemble the bench! 

On our next entry I will cover how to create the Glider (along with the chains, etc.) and lastly the finish.

After assembling the bench I used my router to round over the edges.

After routing the edges and before calling it a night, I placed wood filler on all of the screw holes. Once its dry (tomorrow), I will sand the bench, and prepare for staining and weatherproofing. 
This step (wood filler on the screw holes) is strictly cosmetic so if you like the rustic look, feel free to leave them as is :-)

(Pics of the stained/finished product will be posted soon)

What I would do different my next go-around:
- I would attach the bottom slats before installing the arm rests. The arm rests are in the way.

- Route the wood before installing (not enough clearance to route afterwards).

Bench Plans:

Glider Video:

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